‘We have a responsibility to carry on the torch of our ancestors’

Once upon a time, in Madrid in the 1960s, an Algerian migrant arrived from France in search of a new beginning. The man, named Ahmed Sahri, set out to open a Maghreb restaurant in the Spanish capital. Construction began in 1963 and took three years of hard, meticulous work by Moroccan craftsmen who did their utmost to decorate the walls of the premises.  

The restaurant opened in 1966, and some time later, Mustafa Lailai arrived, studying his final year of a postgraduate degree in English Philology. By a stroke of fate, and thanks to his culture and environment, he has been living in the capital for more than 20 years and is currently the head waiter at the Moroccan restaurant Al-Mounia. For him, his work is a most enriching experience, both personally and professionally, as he acknowledges to Atalayar.

However, being a head waiter is very hard work: ‘It's a huge responsibility. It's very demanding. You always have to be on the front line because you're the face of the restaurant, its image,’ explains Lailai. The restaurant is frequented by political figures from Arab countries such as Turkey, Morocco and Saudi Arabia, for whom Al-Mounia is a place to meet and talk in peace. 

Well-known figures such as the president of Madrid, Isabel Díaz Ayuso, and footballer Karim Benzema also go there to enjoy a quiet place that respects their privacy. ‘We give them their space to enjoy a good time with us,’ explains Lailai.

He understands that famous people also deserve a place to hang out with their family or friends without being in the spotlight of their fans or the media. And he also knows that, because they are so well known, they are forced to pay a ‘price’ based on trying to please everyone every time they go out in public. 

As for the rest of the clientele, Lailai says they come from all walks of life: 'Some, like the Arabs, have this need to go to a restaurant to eat meat that has to be halal (...). But that doesn't even represent 30% of our clientele, because at the end of the day we treat our regular customers, the locals, the Spanish, well (...). But we work with practically everyone.'

One of the reasons why customers visit Al-Mounia, according to the head waiter, is nostalgia. Whether they grew up in Morocco or have spent time in the country, they are looking to relive those memories that ‘have remained etched in their minds’. 

Not only do they come to reminisce, but people also come from other parts of the world to feel at home. This is especially true on special occasions such as Ramadan or Eid Al Adha, when family time is important.

‘Many people have that feeling when they walk through the door, they think they're being teleported to Morocco. It's like being in Madrid, but with the feeling, the experience of having been teleported to Marrakech, for example, or to Morocco or some other eastern city,’ explains Lailai. 

This atmosphere that attracts customers is the result of several factors. They have always been committed to preserving the restaurant's heritage, tradition and history: ‘The restaurant is Moroccan, we have a responsibility to carry on the torch of our ancestors.’

The first thing that catches the eye is the purely handcrafted decoration that adorns the walls of the restaurant. The walls, carefully decorated by hand with materials such as plaster and mosaic, are also painted with 100% natural flowers. In addition, each wooden ceiling represents the area where the craftsman who made it comes from; for example, one is from Fez and another from Ouarzazate. 

The second is the dance show on weekends. The restaurant has contracted a service with a dance school, whereby a different dancer comes on a rotating schedule, depending on their availability.

The third thing is the quality of the food, which sets it apart from the rest. The head waiter assures us that they use the best quality ingredients and handle them with the utmost care. He points out that the restaurant's location also plays a role in maintaining high standards. 

And the fourth is the adaptation of the menu to its clientele as part of its evolution, but of course without losing its essence. ‘We have to live up to what the restaurant represents, but also adapt to new times and customers, and from there we have a more extensive menu,’ explains the head waiter.

Due to his Moroccan origins and as a personal recommendation from Mustafa Lailai, he considers the Tajín Ambrosía to be Al-Mounia's star dish because ‘it reminds me of my childhood, the food our mothers used to make for us, and it was a dish that was, let's say, essential in our home.’ 

The success of the tagine has meant that both new diners and those who come back have agreed that it is delicious.

Interestingly, the Algerian decided that his restaurant should serve Moroccan food because at the time, it was better known than the cuisine of other areas of the Maghreb or the Middle East. 

The Al-Mounia restaurant, which began as a private gastronomic club frequented by those who paid to be members, is one of the most classic places in the city of Madrid. Thanks to its history, its construction, its food and its service, it attracts customers from all walks of life while always maintaining its essence.