Gastronomy born in the midst of war unites borders

The former Director of Tourism for Mexico in Spain and Portugal (diplomatic mission from 2000 to 2003), Deputy Minister of Tourism in Mexico in the government of President Calderón and Secretary of Tourism for the state of Guanajuato (considered "of the highest distinction" in world tourism), has told this correspondent about the existence of the phenomenon of international tourism movement through the table, which invites us to create a space for conversation in order to deliberate and reach agreements.  

In this situation of a convulsive world, the kitchen and the cooker are gaining strength, inviting us to sit around a table for dialogue: "A rhetoric to be evaluated at this time". "Sharing a table, intended for the purpose (eating together), would soften the acrimony in international conflicts".  This is how Fernando Olivera Rocha responded to the question posed by this correspondent on the close relationship between the kitchen cooker and long war campaigns. 

The 7th World Tapas Championship in the city of Valladolid has brought together 16 chefs from all over the world, with India as the guest country and France as the observer country, with Mexico standing out for its originality. 

For Fernando Olivera Rocha, who has held positions in the Federal Government as Undersecretary of Tourism Operations and General Director of Tourism Product Development and Tourism Culture, this phenomenon can be viewed from two perspectives. One is the growth of gastronomic tourism in the international sphere, where one in four tourists travels for the sake of eating, given that the enjoyment of the palate generates bridges and intercultural ties.  

And the other perspective, based on the conception of an interconnected world through gastronomic reciprocity, with stories of dishes in the midst of armed conflict and where, today, it could slow down the shipment of products. Maintaining the harmony that is generated between cultures may not prevent a war, but it can help the parties to a conflict to sit around a table and discuss with calmer tempers. The importance of the agri-food sector on an international level has allowed this model of the Valladolid competition to be exported to countries such as Mexico, where the first edition of the National Tapas Competition has been held in the city of Querétaro.  

In the same vein, Olivera Rocha, currently in charge of external consultancy for several Mexican states, such as Querétaro, has made a positive impact on the global tourism industry with his commitment and enthusiasm. 

Certainly, conflicts could generate greater tension at airports in the strict supervision, running the risk of products not crossing, that is, that the exchange between countries would be affected in the export and import of ingredients, and, consequently, limiting the opportunity to transfer economically and socially. "In our case, fortunately, we were able to bring all the ingredients, with which Mexico participated in the Valladolid World Championship: nixtamalised creole corn, wild mushrooms, beef tongue, green tomatillo sauce with xoconostle and escamoles (ant roe), along with coriander sprouts".  

Olivera Rocha also argued that armed conflicts have given rise to the most unique culinary preparations throughout history, so that, in order to supply troops in conflict, the cuisine has to be practical, high in protein, carbohydrates and vitamins, and can be eaten quickly. 

He also wished to dedicate a few words to his country, Mexico, which has been working hard for ten years to promote the tapa, "a tiny culinary invention that turns passion into an art and a fusion of legend and innovation", and to David Quevedo, winner of the 2021 World Championship, who coordinated a programme run by the Guanajuato Ministry of Tourism with 230 traditional cooks from different Otomí and Chichimeca villages. Mesquite prickly pears, yucca, agave, seeds and roots all contributed to Quevedo's love of cooking. Chef David Quevedo absorbed the knowledge of central Mexican cuisine to bring the winning tapa (the catrina, holding a ceremonial taco) to Spain in 2021. Aztec figure Mictecacihuatl, the goddess of death), "which has to do with the Mexican's attachment to the beginning and end of life and with the Otomi tradition of family seal that passes from generation to generation", as Olivera Rocha pointed out. 

Kapoor Sanjeev, India's top chef, is committed to gastronomic diplomacy

After interviewing this leading figure in international tourism, this correspondent was able to hold a meeting with the best and emblematic chef of Indian cuisine, Kapoor Sanjeev, who praised the important role played by world events of this type, "because it contributes to improving relations between countries". The United Nations (UN) chose him as India's ambassador for its "clean cookstoves" campaign. 

The culinary offerings, as well as religion, culture and race, are symbols of the union of peoples. Gastronomy, science and art, studies the relationship between food and the environment and is a link between peoples. Cooperation around a table has an impact on the good relations between nations. This philanthropic chef, recognised by his government as "the best chef in all of India" has an association whose meal programme serves lunches to more than 2.3 million school children in Indian states. 

In a message to the world's citizenry, as a chef of great diplomatic influence, Kapoor Sanjeev, in an emotional tone, evoked the plight of a child in the midst of a troubled India, and urged governments to take measures other than the exodus of refugees. "It breaks my heart to recall images of my parents, suffering at this very juncture: the displacement of civil society from their homes," he said.

For Kapoor Sanjeev, in the face of elements that are helping to break the world apart, art helps to smooth out the rough edges. Cooking touches all five senses, thus bringing human beings closer together. Culinary preparations in combat zones have, on the one hand, the support of chefs like José Andrés with his foundation World Central Kitchen, who provides and supplies food to the citizens, victims of the conflicts, and on the other hand, like Kapoor Sanjeev, who has maintained that he himself collaborates in the post-conflict period in the early recovery, through the exploitation of agricultural resources, a source of food for these countries at war. "Returning to the economy that sustains them is the way to help them through the organisations I represent," he said. 

Finally, Sanjeev wanted to make it clear that the resolution of a conflict must be peaceful. "Aggression leads to more aggression", he said.  

Carmen Chamorro García, CIP/ACPE board member and SEI graduate in International Relations.